I've heard whispers about it for decades — a knock-out walk to an extraordinary rock feature perched on edge of the Illawarra escarpment.
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Actively not promoted by authorities due to access and safety concerns, the 4.5km return trek to Drawing Room Rocks near Berry has remained a secret to many for years.
But a recent explosion in photographs of the remarkable rocks, which resemble a table and chairs set, posted on social media has enticed a surge of bushwalkers to the cliff-top.
So this week, your akubra-clad columnist headed to the lush Berry hinterland to see what all the fuss is about, and being school holidays, Mrs Yowie along with our daughters Sarah (10) and Emily (7) joined in the adventure.
Arguably one of the most challenging parts of this walk is finding the start point. Not only do some older versions of Google Maps list the track head at the wrong spot, but there's only space for a handful of vehicles to park in a partially cleared patch of scrub on the side of a steep gravel road. In fact, it's only after a seven-point turn to avoid reversing into a ravine followed by a thirty-minute wait for another party of walkers to return to their car that we finally park the Yowie Mobile and by the time we reach the sign at the track head which warns of the steep and dangerous nature of the walk, to say Mrs Yowie is having second thoughts would be an understatement.
Fortunately Mrs Yowie's anxiousness soon dissipates when we pass a family with a couple of kids, both under five bounding back down the track. "It's steep, but as long as you take your time, the kids will be fine," advise the parents, both perspiring profusely in the hot and humid conditions. And to think they are walking downhill.
The first part of the track, flanked by giant rainforest trees and granite boulders festooned with mosses and lichens, is a real heart-starter and despite the lack of directional markers, the high volume of hikers in recent years means that the track is quite well-worn and relatively easy to follow.
About half-way up, the track splits in two. If you turn right there is a vantage point looking east towards Gerroa, but after a generous gulp from our water bottles we continue onwards and upwards.
Near the top of the plateau the track climbs out of the rainforest and enters an unexpected tunnel of stunted heath. "This is like a fairyland," yelps little Emily as she clambers over a mat of gnarly roots which criss-cross the track like a giant web of varicose veins. Meanwhile, mum and dad are forced to duck to navigate through the maze of intertwined branches hanging just above our heads.
One especially low branch flicks off Mrs Yowie's hat, which lands with a splash in a puddle. It turns out to be a blessing in disguise. "At least it'll cool me down a bit," she remarks, shaking mud and water from her hat as she plonks it back on her head. We each follow suit, dunking our own hats in the same puddle — while this part of the track is far from steep, the sea breeze is unable to penetrate through the enclosed canopy, making it stifling hot.
Thankfully, about an hour since leaving the car, underfoot turns from a mix of dirt and mud to sand, an indication we have finally reached the sandstone cap of the mountain.
"There they are," hollers Sarah as we emerge from the tunnel. Wow!
Just a stone's throw and perilously close to the cliff-top is a spectacular spread of uniquely –shaped rocks. "They really do look like tables and chairs," exclaims Mrs Yowie, admitting all that huffing and puffing up the hill was worth the effort after all. "If only we'd brought the white linen table cloth and a picnic," she muses.
Although the name of these rock refers to furniture you might find in a formal drawing room, the girls take the name of the rocks literally, and take turns sitting at one of the less precariously-positioned 'tables', pencils poised over their sketch books.
We linger at the top for almost two-hours and while Mrs Yowie and I watch, mesmerised by the ever-changing view, the transitory nature of quickly forming (and dispersing) clouds frustrates the girls' attempts to capture the vista in their sketch books. In fact, after the second near complete cloud-in, Sarah gives up her artistic efforts and curls up in a curved shaped sandstone slab which resembles an exotic lounge chair. While not nearly as padded as the sofa at home, it commands a view that while not complete in her sketch book, will be etched in our minds forever.
We'll be back again, probably when the weather is cooler. Don't tell Mrs Yowie, but I might even bring that white linen table cloth for a celebratory lunch at the top. There'll be no bottle of champagne though, for the trek back down the hill is steep and slippery and you wouldn't want to stumble.
Fact file
The walk: 4.5 km return (including 350 metre ascent). Allow 2 – 3 hours walking time plus at least 30 minutes at the top to enjoy the view. A moderate level of fitness is required. Warning: this track features unfenced open cliff faces and is not maintained or recommended by National Parks or Shoalhaven City Council. Attempt the walk at your own risk.
Getting there: Drawing Room Rocks is in the Barren Grounds Nature Reserve, near Berry on the NSW south coast. From its intersection with Wattamolla Road, follow Brogers Creek Road for 100 metres and take the first road on the right. This unsealed road winds uphill for about 400 metres to a private locked gate where there is limited parking and where, if all parks are taken, turning around can be problematic. If possible have a friend drop you off near the corner of Brogers Creek and Wattamolla Roads or find a safe location to park off the verge of a nearby road and walk to the track head.
Best time to go: Go mid-week to avoid the crowds. Also stay clear of sunrise and sunset —not only will you be walking in the dark in one direction, which can be dangerous, especially if cloud or fog descends, but the track is often busy at that time with Gen Y's looking for that attention-seeking shot to entice followers on social media.
Rock origins: The unique appearance of the rocks are the result of the weathering of sandstone over a long time span by a number of different agents including wind, rain, cold, heat and chemicals in rainfall. According to the Geological Sites of NSW website (www.geomaps.com.au), "the sandstone is horizontal strata, so the flat table tops consist of stone made up of a harder more resistant mineral layer which has remained when the softer surrounding rocks have eroded."
Look out for: Near the main lookout are a number of official-looking carvings in the rock face, some of which you can decipher, including the name 'E.B Stewart'. Maybe they are related to the first Europeans to visit the rocks? Someone must know.
Tim's Tip: Avoid parking troubles by bunking down at the nearby 'Drawing Rooms of Berry'. Luxury self-contained boutique lodges located just a 15 minute stroll from the walking track from $299 per night. 21 Wattamolla Road, Berry. Ph: 6574 7053 or www.drawingrooms.com.au