Regional distilleries embrace local produce

Since 2014, the number of distilleries in Australia jumped from 28 to 350, the Australian Distillers Association said.

And these spirit-makers are using ingredients they have on hand to pioneer flavours in the "new world" of booze.

This can range from harvesting nearby wheat or grapes to make the spirit's base, through to using unique-tasting native botanicals for an unmistakably Australian flavour.

Australian distillers are experimenting with everything from green ant pheromones to seaweed, exploring the ingredients in their backyard.

Stephen Dobson made spirits as a hobby while he travelled the world working in film, until bad news spurred a lifestyle change.

"I was working on Moulin Rouge when I was diagnosed with a brain tumour - and that ended my film career," Mr Dobson told ACM.

The cinematographer had a career in film, working with Chris Columbus and Dean Semler, and making iconic 1990's ads Coca Cola's "Skysurfer" and BP's "Planes, trains and automobiles".

Seeking a lifestyle change with his wife Lyn and son Josh, Mr Dobson moved to Kentucky, NSW, and saw an opening in the market.

"There were no distilleries or breweries here," he said.

Since 2004, Dobson's Distillery has turned its hand to whiskey, gin, vodka and liqueurs, winning high praise and "double golds" at the San Francisco spirit awards.

The distiller uses experimental flavour combinations made with native ingredients like sweet pea and strawberry gum leaves - a trend that has exploded in Australian gin making in the past five years.

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Mr Dobson said the great thing about running a regional distillery is not just affordable real estate, but fresh produce on their doorstep.

"A lot of our grain for distilling comes from the local area," he said.

The distillery has partnered with local wineries, hit hard by years of fire and drought, to turn their smoke tainted grapes into vermouth - a spiced and fortified wine-based liquor.

"The things that make good wine don't necessarily make a great spirit, and sometimes a spirit can use those extra flavours to create depth," he said.

"For something like a vermouth, you can imagine a little bit of eucalyptus oil and smoke is actually an asset," Mr Dobson said.

"That way everybody wins - they get something for their crop that year and we get a new spirit that's truly unique.

"It just helps everyone along."

Mr Dobson is not alone, a string of Australian distilleries are working with winemakers, including Four Pillars distillery in the Yarra Valley, Victoria.

The distillery makes a "bloody shiraz gin" from a parcel of grapes grown by nearby winemaker Rob Dolan.

"Rob wasn't sure what to do with it, so we took it off his hands - perhaps without his knowledge," he said.

Four Pillars "bloody shiraz gin" is raking in accolades, securing a gold medal and best in category at the 2022 American Distilling Institute international awards.

Distilling is increasingly popular side project for winemakers, with the raw materials for gins like Balcombe, Sud Polaire and Melbourne Gin Company sprouting from the distiller's own vineyards.

Balcombe distiller Barney Flanders, winemaker at Garagiste, uses native botanicals including saltbush, kelp and wild fennel pollen to infuse gin with flavours from Australia's bush and sea.

In Dromana on the Mornington Peninsula in Victoria, distiller James McPherson is using sugarcane from Grafton, in NSW's Northern Rivers, to make a range of rums.

"There's a big uptick in rum awareness, right across the country," he told ACM.

Jimmy Rum distillery, named after it's founder, uses the natural flavours of Australia sugarcane in his spirit.

"We've got a philosophy - we add a lot less sugar, richer flavours and more rum in the bottle," Mr McPherson said.

Mr McPherson partnered with a nearby winery, Crittenden Estate, to make 750 bottles of "pinot" rum every vintage.

Growing up on the Mornington Peninsula meant Mr McPherson was happy to move back when an ideal site became available in Dromana's industrial area.

The distillery space hosts 18 artisanal manufacturers in what Mr McPherson calls "the habitat".

"Seven of them sell booze, but the rest make anything from denim jackets to candles to surfboards," he said.

"We've put it together to showcase everyone in the area."

Those interested can find their nearest distillery and seek out local flavours.