Lighthouses and lobster rolls on a North American cruise

Sure, tropical islands have rum cocktails and turquoise water, but we're headed from New York to New England and Canada for spectacular seafood, charming fishing villages and some of the prettiest autumn foliage in North America. It's Goldilocks season - not too hot, not too cold - and a light jacket will be warm enough most days.

Sailing out of New York City's cruise terminal on a cloudless blue-sky October day, the shiny skyscrapers along Manhattan's west side are almost close enough to touch. As we sail past downtown, One World Observatory sparkles, reflecting the sun's rays. The top deck is crowded with passengers snapping selfies with the Statue of Liberty in the background.

Our first port of call on this voyage is Newport, Rhode Island, an all-American city by the sea. It would take about four hours to drive there from New York City, but we cruise slowly north, enjoying the views, arriving 12 hours after we leave Manhattan.

No stranger to the life aquatic, Newport's yacht-filled harbour has played host to many thrilling America's Cup races. In 1983, the Australian team famously came from behind to defeat the Americans, bringing to an end the longest winning streak in sporting history. Despite the upset, Aussies are still welcome, so long as the gloating is kept to a minimum.

Newport's other claim to fame is the abundance of grand Gilded Age mansions that perch majestically along the wide, shaded avenues. There was once mind-boggling wealth in this part of the US, a favourite summer holiday spot of moneyed families including the Rockefellers and the Astors. Many of the mansions are now museums, open to the public for tours and independent exploration.

The most famous is The Breakers, built from 1893-1895, in the style of a Renaissance palace. It's incredible to see the details up close, a cataloguing of the enormous wealth generated by the Vanderbilts and other families before income tax was introduced in the US in 1909.

The next day in Portland, Maine, the 19th-century architecture surrounding the docks is more of a mash-up. Old warehouses have been converted into shops, restaurants and breweries, while the splendid City Hall and Portland Art Gallery are housed in buildings that show there was once a lot of money flowing in to this port city.

It's the sort of relaxed destination where it's easy to spend a day just wandering around, browsing the shops and enjoying a cold beer. Seafood is on the menu everywhere, from the lobster trucks along the waterfront to cosy pubs on Commercial Street.

Many of the ship's passengers say the port they are most looking forward to is Bar Harbor, Maine. To sound like a local, dispense of all 'r' sounds and just go with 'Bah Hahbah'. This beautiful Maine village is surrounded by Acadia National Park, one of the best places in the US to enjoy the natural wonder of leaves changing from summer-green to autumn hues of red, orange and gold. It's not to be missed, so make sure to book ahead to join a shore excursion. It's a bit far to walk or cycle from the port, though there is a trolley tour running throughout the summer season.

Day five, already? Time flies on a cruise when you're having fun. We arrive in Saint John, Canada to a warm welcome from locals who are stocked up and ready to sell us everything touched by maple syrup (cookies, cashew nuts, beer).

Saint John, on the Bay of Fundy, is known for the Reversing Rapids. Twice each day, the tide rises more than eight metres and forces the Saint John River to reverse its direction. There's also a well-stocked international food hall selling interesting dishes, many from immigrant families, and a Moosehead Brewery to while away the day.

Our final port day is in Halifax, the capital of Nova Scotia. Closer to Dublin, Ireland, than it is to Victoria, British Columbia, it's a bustling, modern city with terrific restaurants and shopping. A vintage double-decker Hop On Hop Off bus tour of the city and surrounds offers insights into the city's tragic ties to the Titanic disaster and an explosion in 1917 that rocked the harbour, killing more than 1,700 people.

After a busy week exploring, the final sea day is a welcome opportunity to enjoy the ship as we cruise back to New York. There's a performance of SIX: The Musical (as good as any you'll see on Broadway), a Fleetwood Mac tribute show in the pub and all the fun and flavour of a teppanyaki dinner. Who needs the Caribbean?

Kristie Kellahan was a guest of NCL NCL's cruise to Canada & New England: Bar Harbour & Newport roundtrip sailing from New York on Norwegian Breakaway visits six ports in seven days, with prices from $1765 per person, based on 25 August 2024 departure date. See ncl.com.