Thai history in a bowl of noodle soup
Every chef has their own secret recipe for khao soi.
In the beautiful city of Chiang Mai in northern Thailand, the culinary options are especially bountiful. Excellent Thai food, naturally, as well as international cuisine that pleases every palate from French to Japanese to Mexican and beyond.
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Whether your budget and cravings run more to night market cheap eats (mango smoothies and spring rolls, yes please!) or elegant fine dining at glamorous hotels such as Four Seasons, the food alone is worth travelling for.
One of the most famous Chiang Mai dishes is khao soi, a coconut curry noodle soup garnished with oodles of crispy egg noodles and served with a chicken drumstick or thigh.
Every chef has their own secret recipe, tinkering with the heat level, adding an extra dash of palm sugar here or a squeeze of tamarind juice there.
Some will substitute tender beef for the chicken, or swap in wok-fried tofu at the request of vegan diners.
At weekly open-air food festivals and hole-in-the-wall restaurants, the competition to produce the most popular khao soi is spirited.
Ask two tour guides where to find the best and you'll get at least three opinions. Many swear by Khao Soi Khun Yai, tucked away in an alleyway near Si Phum Road. The name translates to Grandma's Khao Soi and is a clue to the traditional recipe and methods they use. Arrive before noon or be prepared to wait for a table.
Also very popular is Khao Soi Islam Noodles, a Muslim restaurant close to Ban Ho Mosque and the Night Bazaar. Indeed, the dish is thought to have been brought to Chiang Mai by Muslim Chinese traders who migrated to Thailand from Myanmar in the 19th Century.
Why not try them all? At a cost of 50 baht (about $2) per bowl, you can't go wrong.
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