Want to feel like the king of France? Simply hop on this European ship

Avalon Waterways' river experience from Paris to Normandy and back had me meandering the historic Seine for nine days, with a new level of luxury unlocked in a setting that surely would have pleased the Rois de France. Needless to say, I didn't meet that demise aboard Avalon's Tapestry II no matter how many times I adjusted the firmness of my extravagant Comfort Collection mattress, ordered an old-fashioned at happy hour or filled up with vitamin water.

With fewer than 130 guests, it felt like I was aboard a floating hotel where the staff knew my name, my favourite wine and exactly how I liked my pillows fluffed.

From the moment I stepped aboard Tapestry II (embarking from Normandy after a coach trip from the City of Light), the world outside melted away. My luggage was whisked to my stateroom as I mingled with fellow travellers, downloaded the helpful Avalon app (offering daily cruise menus, excursions and location details) and met the crew, including Captain Laurent Taupe and Avalon's charismatic cruise director Simona Ciocanel, a beacon of knowledge and warmth. It felt like an episode of Downton Abbey as the crew lined up with welcoming smiles and refreshments.

Nothing prepared me for the view from my stateroom. My Panorama Suite was a sanctuary, its balcony offering a front-row seat to the Seine's ever-changing scenery. The beds actually face the spectacle: lie down and watch the riverscape, or sit at your room's table with a coffee to marvel at Norman castles and chateaux shimmering on the horizon. Most mornings, I slid the windows open for the crisp breezes before joining new friends for a breakfast buffet.

Dining aboard Tapestry II was an experience in itself. Breakfast, lunch and dinner were included, offering a choice between a multi-course regional feast or more casual dining. The wine was handpicked, the produce was local, the laughter was genuine.

The crew is Avalon's greatest strength. They ensured we were well prepared for excursions and helped us unwind with evening activities, from karaoke to dancing.

Avalon's excursions included the whizz of electric bikes through Paris, a stroll in Napoleon and Josephine's Chateau de Malmaison, climbing the 206 steps to the top of the Pantheon or making Chantilly cream at a breathtaking estate. I opted for a gentle walk to Rouen's Cathedral, imagining Monet's furrowed brow as he contemplated his garden in Giverny, exploring the castle of La Roche-Guyon in the Seine Valley where we were treated to local jam, brioche and cider, and discovering the poignancy of Normandy's WWII landing beaches.

Every day brought a new discovery. Headsets for each excursion kept us connected to our guides and their inspiring love of history. With fewer guests - Avalon's approach for an intimate experience - our excursions were unhurried, offering a fresh perspective on Europe's well-trodden sights.

Dreamlike hamlets such as Caudebec, Conflans, Les Andelys and Vernon each left an imprint. I was mesmerised by streaks of sunshine through deep canopies and the brooding half-timbered thatched roofs of Normandy, aching with history.

Also in Normandy, we dined on fresh seafood, sipped wine and indulged in an incredible Norman apple tart at a charming restaurant. At Chateau du Breuil, we sampled Normandy's famed Calvados brandy. In Le Havre, we toured the town before slipping into a boulangerie for a pastry fix.

Mel Brooks once joked, "It's good to be the king." Standing in the Palace of Versailles, surrounded by the opulence of Marie Antoinette's chamber, the Hall of Mirrors and the sprawling gardens, this seemed especially true for those who called Versailles home as the de facto capital of France from 1682 to 1789. Indeed, the three Kings - all named Louis - privileged to live there before the French Revolution brought it to an end loved a soiree. The rooms whisper a frolic of the ages. I was floored by the Venetian windows: there are 357 at Versailles. What a story those windows could tell, laced with intrigue and murder. I learned that Venice was the epicentre for mirror-making in the 17th century, but Louis XIV lured (or kidnapped) artisans from that city to create Versailles' famed Hall of Mirrors - an act so brazen that the Venetian government allegedly ordered their assassination.

On a pilgrimage to philosopher Voltaire's crypt at the Pantheon in Paris, we spent a moment listening to echoes. Born Francois-Marie Arouet, Voltaire became a literary hero of mine when I first read his works at university, awed by his timeless and eloquent defence of freedom of speech. "I may not agree with what you have to say, but I will defend to the death your right to say it." The Pantheon, decreed a mausoleum in 1881, houses the remains of Victor Hugo, Simone Veil and Alexandre Dumas. Voltaire's ashes were placed there in a lavish ceremony on July 11, 1791.

This voyage had me abandon the white noise of my busy life and listen to the wind shuffle in trees, watch the ripples of the Seine and rediscover a love of discovery itself. The travellers I met were seeking to enrich their souls through pinch-me moments. Avalon takes care of the details so that all that's left to do is soak it in. To luxuriate, cruise and repeat.

Just like the three kings of Versailles.

THE SHIP: Avalon Waterways' Tapestry II

THE SIZE: 110 metres; 64 cabins; 128 guests

GOOD TO KNOW: Forget pillow menus, this ship has a mattress menu with different levels of firmness. At the back of the ship, there's a small lounge, with tea and coffee and snacks all day. It was my favourite spot on the vessel.

GET ON BOARD: The nine-day Paris-return Active & Discovery on the Seine cruise is from $5510 per person.

EXPLORE MORE: avalonwaterways.com.au

The writer was a guest of Avalon.

Pictures: Peter Angelopoulos; Unsplash