True grit helps steer this duo along an iconic walk.

I can't believe you're here," I say, hugging Mum at the Hobart airport baggage claim. Her presence is no small feat. Diagnosed with acute myeloid leukaemia she was given just six months to live if untreated but that was over two years ago.
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And this isn't a sad travel story; it's one of fierce determination. Despite a morning chemo injection, oral antibiotics for a chest infection and another chemo dose, my mum is determined to walk the Three Capes with me, to make lasting memories.
And we're off...
After a quick shoe clean at the Stormlea check-in station to preserve the bio flora and fauna, we embark on the 18-kilometre round trip to the tip of Cape Raoul. We're on the southern point of the Tasman Peninsula, about 120 kilometres south-east of Hobart. Leading our pack, veteran guide Chrissy points out that the area boasts more than one-third of Tasmania's recorded plant species, including 60 that are threatened.
The experienced walkers set off at a brisk pace, walking poles at the ready, while Mum and I fall to the back, flanked by our second guide Dave, who carries anything we can't manage.
This isn't a sad travel story; it's one of fierce determination.
We take it slowly through tall eucalypt forests, sheoak woodlands and coastal heath to reach the dramatic sea cliffs of Cape Raoul. Pausing when Mum needs to recharge, we find ourselves chatting heartily with Dave while taking in the intoxicating native botanical scent around us. This is no ordinary walking trail and offers spectacular views of remote Tasman Island and Cape Pillar, and vast vistas across Storm Bay to Bruny Island, which provides a wonderful distraction for Mum who feels wan most of the way.
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As we stop for lunch, everyone breathes a collective gasp at the stunning sheer dolerite rock cliff formations that lie before us and then a sigh of relief as we rest for a quick lunch before the final stretch towards the end of the Cape - passing the big-wave surf break of Shipstern's Bluff
Finally we arrive at the tip and from atop towering cliffs, a colony of Australian fur seals nestles at the base of Cape Raoul. Mum arrives spent, the physical intensity taken to keep up with the group has taken its toll on her; thankfully a timely cup of billy tea and biscuit restores some pep in her.

Mum digs in for the relentless nine-kilometre return and walks with perseverance and a resolve reminiscent of the Blitz spirit. I could easily have forgiven her for suggesting a helicopter pick her up instead. It's probably also got to do with Chrissy, who joins us at the rear and seems to buoy her, as she reveals camouflaged pademelons and elusive Tasmanian devil tracks.
After a tough first day, Mum and I skip the 18-kilometre, 500-metre elevation walk to Fortescue Bay and join the alternative "multi-faceted" option on the itinerary, for a mix of walking and afternoon tea with a smaller group.
We immediately warm to our new guides, Craig and Kate, who embrace the motto: "Don't chase, own pace" to Waterfall Bluff Lookout while meandering through the rainforest, or "The Green Room" as Craig calls it. He introduces us to local mosses and ferns and follows beautiful sea cliffs, home to Australia's largest network of underwater sea caves. Viewing Patterson's Arch, Devil's Kitchen and the impressive Tasmans Arch not dissimilar to the grandeur of The Twelve Apostles.

Mum and I are enchanted by new flora discoveries like pepperberry and blackheart sassafras, an evergreen tree native to the cool temperate rainforests. We learn that the local Palawa people used crushed leaves to soothe toothaches, while being captivated by the intoxicating scent of rainforest mingled with menthol. We drive north to Eaglehawk Neck for lunch and explore the Tessellated Pavement, an intertidal rock platform with remarkably precise linear formations. Craig introduces us to protected bull kelp seaweed and suggests an afternoon tea at Port Arthur Lavender Cafe, which is met with enthusiasm.
On our final day, fatigued yet invigorated by our time immersed in nature, we embark on a final undulating walk to Cape Hauy, filled with ups and downs - much like life! The track features short, steep hill sections, a firm gravel surface, well-formed rock steps, and boardwalks. Although we don't reach the sheer sea cliffs, Mum's significantly improved chest infection allows us to continue. We pause with Dave at the two-thirds mark as the rest of the group pushes on. Sharing a cup of billy tea, we chat about his life, family, work and our mutual love of nature. It feels like we'd met a kindred spirit, and indeed, all the guides are exceptional in kindness and expertise throughout our trip.

With the walking component complete, we set out after lunch on an exhilarating three-hour wilderness boat cruise around Cape Pillar. Wind in our hair, the cruise offers spectacular contrasting sea level views of the Three Capes with their sheer dolerite cliffs and sea stacks. Alongside the famous Totem Pole rock pillar, we spot albatrosses, seals, dolphins and sea eagles - a magical, momentous way to end our tour.
As all of life's journeys eventually do, ours comes to an end. We say our goodbyes with our troupe and retreat to our hotel, exhausted, exhilarated, yet smiling ear to ear after walking 40 kilometres over three days. Mum, reflecting on the trip, mentions she had no expectations, letting the three days unfold naturally, which left her in constant amazement. "Every day revealed something new that I didn't know before - a nice change at my ripe age," she says.
The oldest in the group, battling illness and surviving on little sleep, yet savouring every moment. Over fish and chips, I share how proud I felt walking with her and witnessing her zest for life. Mum simply replies, "My dear, you don't let sickness dominate your life - I've got no time for that!"
Getting there: Fly to Hobart with Qantas, Virgin Australia or Jetstar. The start of the Three Capes Walk is a two-hour drive from Hobart.
Trekking there: The Three Capes Walk, by Life's an Adventure, offers a three-day guided experience twice weekly from September to May. Prices start at $2399 per person including four-star lodge-style accommodations.
Explore more: lifesanadventure.com.au/tours/three-capes-walk
The writer was a guest of Life's an Adventure.




