This new peninsula retreat takes hot springs indulgence to the next level

At the end of the peninsula, Alba is away from the busy holiday towns facing the bay. Instead, it's surrounded by ocean beaches, dramatic Cape Schanck, golf courses and wineries. There are several great short walks nearby and some of the peninsula's best restaurants, including Tedesca and newcomer Barragunda Dining. It's directly opposite the long-standing Peninsula Hot Springs.

Italian linen robes, local wildflowers ... we're deep in spa-aaah country, so expect soft neutrals, soft textures, soft lighting. The room is like being enveloped in a beautiful cocoon, with a palette of caramels and linen, warm oak timbers and flames flickering in a fireplace where a TV would otherwise be.

Mine is Room 5, which everyone agrees has the best views. I'm not normally a sunrise girl, but watching an eagle hunting as dawn breaks over Arthurs Seat, the golden light spilling over bushland, is worth getting out of that king-sized, super-cushy bed. Aesop toiletries, a Japanese bidet, a kitchen with espresso machine - the detail is intuitive. Note that Villas 4 and 5 don't have baths - that's OK by me, there are 22 hot baths down at the springs. My one gripe regards the partially transparent glass doors on the shower and toilet. These rooms are designed for couples; watching someone shower can be sexy, watching them on the loo simply is not.

Winter's the best time to sit in an outdoor hot pool, as Alba's patrons well know. As late as 9pm, robe-clad groups are shimmying into the spa's restaurant, Thyme, looking for dinner. It's a tribe of white robes, nobody changes (except us because a long dinner in wet swimmers wasn't calling to us). In the villas, the generous all-local mini-bar is jammed with craft beers, chocs and wine. There's also a cheese board on arrival; expect handmade crispbreads and top-tier cheeses. For breakfast, you could hang with the hoi polloi down in Thyme, but far better to have it sent up to the room after an early bathing session.

You're here for the hot pools, and the package includes access to the springs for each day of your stay, including the day you check out. It can get busy, so we bathe early in the morning and late in the evening, when it's quieter (the springs are open 7am to 10pm). It also includes a private pool experience. I opt for a salt float, 45 minutes with eye mask on and earplugs in, suspended Dead Sea-style, in a private tub before finishing with a scented salt scrub and body creams from Port Melbourne's Salus.

On the breakfast menu, the housemade crumpet with peninsula honey, figs and mascarpone is unmissable, and best paired with a mimosa or coffee from local roaster Little Rebel.

The writer was a guest of the hotel