You can fly to this tropical haven from Australia in two hours - here's my verdict

It's one of Port Vila's primo nightspots, and our host tells us this serene watering hole was once a shack with no toilets. It sat between Moorings and Chantilly's, hotels which were destroyed by an earthquake that hit around lunchtime on December 17, 2024.

As we relax on bean bags and sip beside the bay under a dimming sky, it is hard to reconcile this tranquillity with the devastation of the earthquake. But this story of rejuvenation is being repeated all over Efate.

While the rebuild is ongoing, Port Vila is well and truly open for business, with many hotels operational again and more set to reopen. And, with 125 cruise-ship visits scheduled in the early months of 2026, Vanuatu's Tourism Office says the island's recovery is on track.

Mangoes Resort in Port Vila and Breakas Beach Resort on the south-west coast are fully functional and offering an authentic taste of low-key island life. "No hurry, no worry" is a favourite saying among locals we meet.

Perched on a scenic slope, Mangoes is a pretty property of 29 spacious bungalows, some with private plunge pools. Fine dining is a feature here, and Chef Taku's sumptuous Trust the Chef dinner makes this point deliciously.

Breakas stand-alone traditional fare units are set in the garden or the beachfront. My fare was just steps from both the ocean and the bar, presenting a dilemma about what to do first. The restaurant area overlooks a 22-metre infinity pool, and another bar even closer to the sea.

More hotels and resorts have recently - or are soon to - add to the accommodation stock.

The Havannah, an adults-only boutique resort of 17 villas on the north-west coast of Efate, Tamanu on the Beach on the south coast and the new E'Nauwi Beach Resort on the south-west coast all opened in November.

The secluded Turtle Cove Villas on the north side of the island opened in January, while in Port Vila, the Grand Hotel and Casino reopened on March 6, and the Holiday Inn Resort Vanuatu marked a milestone with the reopening of its Seaside Wing on March 1.

Sitting squarely on the Pacific Ring of Fire, Vanuatu - three-and-a-half hours from Sydney, and a little over two hours from Brisbane - is no stranger to earthquakes and other natural disasters. Cyclone Pam wreaked havoc in 2015 when it passed just to the east of Port Vila. And, for a country that earns about a third of its income from tourism, COVID-19 was yet another disaster.

So why is everyone smiling? Our visit reveals optimistic people focused on showcasing their culture and making you feel welkam, the word for "welcome" in Bislama, Vanuatu's English-based creole lingua franca.

"Tank yu tumas" (thank you too much) is another handy phrase to bring with you. You should also carry some vatu, as the friendly, happy service will make you want to leave a tip.

Bislama is similar to the Solomon Islands' Pijin and Tok Pisin in Papua New Guinea. Not that you'll need Bislama to get by, or to order a beer (mi wantem wan beer), as most people, certainly those in the tourism sector, are fluent in English and French.

And while we're on the subject, the local brew, Tusker (named for the large tusks of the local Narave pig, a traditional symbol of strength and prosperity), is a most refreshing way to end a day of tropical exploring.

The raw beauty here is the star attraction. This is not so much a flop-and-drop holiday destination, as Fiji or Bali can be. To get the most out of Vanuatu in general, and Efate in particular, you need to pack a sense of adventure and a tolerance for potholes.

Roy and Elora from Vanuatu Ecotours guide us on a kayak trip up the Rentapao River, a natural corridor through precious rainforest ecosystems.

We paddle through dense, overhanging forest, and our hosts enlighten us as to the flowers and birdlife that splotch vibrant colour amid the endless deep green. The exquisite silence is punctuated by nothing more than bird calls and the lively bleatings of the occasional goat.

We row up to a minor waterfall and return to an inlet beneath a sprawling banyan tree, before tucking into a well-earned lunch of papaya, coconut and surprisingly sweet lemon juice. Roy and Elora's passion for - and knowledge of - this unspoiled part of the world is inspiring.

A more adrenalin-pumping way to see the rainforest is from above. At Vanuatu Jungle Zipline, entertaining and hilarious operators guide you through six lines, soaring across 1.4 kilometres of lush jungle canyon with views over a nearby waterfall and out to Mele Bay and the ocean.

Utilising a harness system like the one used by climbers on the Sydney Harbour Bridge, this is fast, freewheeling fun. Squealing is de rigueur, especially if you choose an upside-down mode of zipping. There's also a canyon swing that lets you fly from a 120-metre-long suspension bridge, 70 metres above the forest floor. The crazy brave who do this reach 120kmh. I waste no time in politely declining, but I can still hear the screams of Annaliese, the top swinger in our group, who took the plunge and the bragging rights.

At the pretty and peaceful Mele Cascades, sparkling streams of impossible clarity trickle and gush over rocks shaped by eons of flow. Amid the gardens, rainforest and the melody of the falls, you can sit and soak up the serenity, or swing out on a rope for an inelegant entry and a dip in the clear water.

A little further down the road, Blue Lagoon on the east coast lives up to its billing. As photogenic as the locals, this enormous natural lagoon is surrounded by luxuriant greenery and palm trees, and boasts a diving platform and more rope swings. Bring a picnic.

On the tranquil waters of Havannah Harbour off the north-west coast of Efate, Bowie the labrador welcomes us aboard Major Tom (cue the day's earworm) for a full-day cruise. Sailing Vanuatu's 18-metre sloop anchors near a coral reef and we snorkel in pellucid water. Bowie, Captain Ben and the rest of the crew are fine hosts, ensuring even the timid get to experience the underwater splendour. An excellent barbecue lunch is followed by a trip to a "Mama's market" on a nearby island, where the local women showcase their handicrafts.

Top-end French bistro Lalala is one of Port Vila's newest dining spots. It's set on the city's harbour, with ferries gently gliding by as we ponder an extensive menu of fresh seafood, including oysters, crab and lobster.

Stone Lounge and Stone Grill are a fine pairing. Start with sunset cocktails at Stone Lounge, where your Pina Colada is served in a coconut, and Bloody Mary syringe shots are spiced up with Vanuatu chilli. My Old Fashioned comes with a choice of six smoky flavours, infused at the table. The adjacent open-air Stone Grill serves up choice Vanuatu beef on stone hot plates, while the resident cats wait under the tables for a morsel or a cuddle.

Cafe Vila (part of Nasama Resort) is a delightful brunch venue, and features walls filled with striking local art, while the restaurant at Banana Bay Beach Club on the south side of the island offers ocean views over a gorgeous natural rock pool.

Mele Beach Bar on the sand at Mele Bay is a favourite haunt of Aussie expats and visitors, especially for the Friday Night Fireshow and the Sunday Sunset Circus, a sort of "youth off the streets" initiative. Expect a grungy, relaxed Kuta vibe with ice-cold Tuskers and western comfort food, such as burgers and tasty wood-fired pizzas.

Vanuatu is the nearby neighbour we should visit more often. Well on the way to full recovery, the island of Efate offers a very warm welkam.

The writer travelled as a guest of Vanuatu Tourism and Jetstar